The Ship: For Real Pub Food
The Ship has been a Wandsworth secret for more than two hundred years. Originally founded in 1786 and called the Thames Waterman’s Inn, this well-hidden pub now attracts locals, regulars and off-duty celebrities looking for fine ale and a bit of traditional Englishness.
The dining room is snug and adorned with prints of Her Majesty pouring pints of bitter for humble customers. Needless to say, she didn’t serve us. Instead, served by a waitress equally as attentive, we were given the menus; plump with British classics such as Bombardier battered haddock, sirloin steak and salt cod fishcakes.
It was a lunchtime, so except for a few big-bellied businessmen it was fairly quiet—although we weren’t going to let that stop us having our three courses too. Haven’t you heard that lunchtime is the new dinnertime?
Pub food done well is a closely guarded British secret. You could easily underestimate the skill behind executing comforting, hearty fare while retaining a minimal level of stodge. Well, if it’s good enough for Danni Minogue (who ate here to relieve the stress of the X Factor), it’s good enough for us. We’ll show those Aussies what a real, homemade pie should taste like. (See the daily specials)
My pan-fried fillet of salmon was cooked beautifully, accompanied by potato and olive oil mash and salsa verde. And I’m convinced the fish and chips had enough crunch to at least make it past the door at Heston Blumethal’s lab. These aren’t light dishes, but then, you’re not here for that.
After a banoffee pie to feed the five thousand and enough port to rival the businessmen, we ended on a gluttonous, triumphant note. What could be more British?
The Ship, 41 Jew’s Row, Wandsworth, SW18 1TB
Rail: Wandsworth Town Rail
Tel. 0208-870-9667
By Gabriella Patterson
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