Boyd’s Brasserie is a surprising restaurant in an unlikely position. Located amongst the imposing buildings of Northumberland Avenue, Boyd’s could easily be overlooked. It could even be overshadowed by its presence under big brother, The Northumberland. A prime high-profile events venue, The Northumberland commands a certain grandeur that the twee and adolescent Boyd’s cannot begin to compete with. That is, until you try the food.

The dining room is undeniably intimate and the frothy fabric furnishings that dominate the space certainly give it a ‘hotel restaurant’ feel. The chef quite obviously takes pride in his dishes—presentation was excellent and the menu refreshing with an insertion of personal character. Mixed tapas of cured fish, salt beef, braised ox cheek and glazed goat’s cheese was altogether more Salcombe than Spanish. Something innovative for a change: British tapas. And who only wants a taste of one starter?

Principally British with a decidedly European flair, fish accompanied lobster croquettes and pickled cucumbers, and meat potato concotte. A satiating bottle of Sauvignon Blanc and we were in the Mediterranean.

Brought back to earth by the nostalgic gypsy tart (an Enid Blyton mix of condensed milk and toffee-coloured muscavado sugar) as well as caramelised banana waffles, and England was firmly on the  horizon again.

A culinary journey across the globe and a daring expedition by Boyd’s: luckily it paid off.

By Gabriella Patterson

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